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vizitka_Sqwer vizitka_Beba

In October 2006 I was in Libya with my friend. We went there on motorbikes - I had Dakar and my friend LC8S. We hired desert guide Mr. Sulejman from Ghadames and we crossed Sahara. Sulejman drowe his own Toyota and carried water, fuel for motorbikes and all our luggage.

Our trip has four stages.

First stage:

Ghadames-Serdeles

We wanted to go along Algerian border by trace L2 from SaharaOverland book. But this trace is prohibited, the area near Algerian border is not safe.

First day

We went across hamada to the start of Ubari Sand Sea. We slept at a beautifull place surrounded by dunes near place with fossils - stone wood.

lyb_spani_murzuk

Second day

Next day we continued across erg (sand sea). This stage was wery exciting, we crossed big dunes and places with soft sand. Sometimes we did not drive to the top of dune and we had to dug the motorbike out from sand, turn it back and try again. Once the car had to help us from the soft sand. We rode the same trace as Karim Husajn from SaharaOverland (thank you Karim for tracking to GPS!). But we didn’t use the GPS, we drowe only by Sulejman’s navigation. Afternoon I had problems with temperature of my engine and twice I had to wait for the temperature reduction. In the shadow, there was 42°C. My friend’s bike - LC8 - had the second additional fan. In the evening we left sand and camped for sleeping at the edge of hamada. The night was beautifull, the sky was starry.

lyb_sqwer_duna

Third day

We crossed hamada to Serdeles, my friend punctured front innertube and our desert guide had to change one tyre. Evening we arrived to old desert city Ghat.

I don’t have many memories of this stage, because it was very strong and fast.

Second stage:

Serdeles - Accacus Mountains - Gherma

We went from Serdeles to Accacus Mountains. By the informations from Ghat, south way to Accacus is prohibited, it is near the Algerian border...

lyb_sqwer_nahore

First night we slept in a nice square between big rocks. We filled a dish with water and placed it to sand for birds. The birds came very soon. Second and third day we wandered in mountains between prehistorics arts and nice rocks. Third day afternoon there was a sand storm, so we had to wrap our heads in the T-shirts and wait three hours. Evening we could have a wash from well, the only well in Accacus.

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Fourth day

We left Accacus and we crossed Erg Tait. The way was not difficult, we rode between dunes by the hamada. Only some times we crossed small dunes. We touched Idehan Murzuk (other sand sea with too much soft sand). At the lunch time we stopped under a big tree. While we were preparing lunch, Sulejman suddenly cryed: "Serpent, serpent!" (french snake). Underthe tree there was a big viper. We took photos and then Sulejman said: "Kill him!" We put on the boots, my friend took shovel and I prepared my video camera. My friend knocked on the snake’s head. But suddenly, second snake jumped from sand under his boots. Very fast dancing came after and my friend killed both snakes. Horrible experience!

lyb_zmije

Afternoon my friend punctured front innertube on hamada.

Fifth day

We were sleeping at a nice place (all places in dunes are nice). This day was my falling day. My first fall was in camel grass, next two on hamada, all falls happened in very low speed and nothing serious happened. I was tired.

Wadi Mathendous was very boring, Acacus was better. In the wadi there are prehistoric pictures. Access road was very hard, full of shaped stones. Last part of way was very fast, hamada with little round stones. After arriving to camp in Gherma I took shower completely dressed and with backpak.

Third stage:

Waw-En-Namus

This is a big volcano crater with the second volcano and lake inside. It is very far from civilization. People say that Europeans discovered this place by satelite photo.

We set out on the journey from the village Timsah. Beyond the village there is a horrible sand plain. We started with the sunrise and without breakfast we crossed this plane. Sand was very soft and we had to drive at minimum speed of 100km/h directly to sun. After crossing the sand plain we boiled cafe on fire. Next trace was very boring, still only hamada, hamada and hamada. The landscape was very flat. I destroyed one innertube. For lunch time we stoped in Waw En Kebir, but this place is quite expensive.

In the evening I punchered front innertube. We passed the night at this place and we repared our innertubes. Our guide told us story about bandits from Chad. They have satellite phones and inform their partners about tourists. They kidnap tourists to Chad.

Second day

Before Waw En Namus there is a checkpoint. All soldiers looked like bandits from Chad.... Without uniform, beared, dirty and with one Kalachnikov for six people.

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Waw En Namus is suprising. Our guide waited with car on first volcano rim. We went on motorbikes down into the volcano. My friend went up to the top of middle volcano, he is crazy!

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During way back I twice punctured front innertube. On lunch time the temperature was too high - 50°C. We fell sleep on sand under falling stars.

Third day

I punctured front tube again. We arrived to the sand plain in front of Thimsat at 12 o’clock. It was too hot. We crossed sand plane, we drowe very fast in soft sand. Temperatue of my engine still growed up and 600 m before achieving a good sand the warning light switched on, I immediately stopped, but before switching off the engine, the water from cooler splashed out from cooler. My friend and the guide returned back from good way to help me. I opened cover of moto and filled up water to cooler from bottles. Then we arrived to Timsah.

Return trip to Gherma on asphalt road was very long. But in one restaurant we took grilled camel liver, very delicious.

In Gherma we visited desert lakes and had three-day rest. We stayed in horrible hotel just in reconstruction. In the room there were cockroaches, my friend killed one in his box. But second turist hotel was absolutely closed.

Fourth stage:

Ubari-Ghadames

We planned to go from Idri across Uweinath Whin to Ghadames by hamada. But our guide proposed diferent way - directly from Ubari to Ghadames across Ubari Sand Sea.

First day

We started late in the afternoon from Ubari and we went across sand plain in direction to the oil well. Along the oil well we went by pista with a lot of soft sand. At 7 o’clock we stopped on sand plain and we prepared for sleeping. But great sand storm suddenly arrived from Accacus. We saw bright stars overhead but around us we could see only for two metres. We had to wait 3 hours in the car and then we were sleeping in wind and sometimes we got a sand shower.

Second day

We woke-up very early, it was still dark. Sulejman prepared for us a big coffee on fire. It wasn’t time for heroic acts and we decreased pressure in both tyres. We started with first sun rays. Sulejman drove very fast and hard across the dunes. We crossed dunes, it was difficult because of a soft sand, we had problems with stopping on the top of dunes, we had to return from dunes back and start to go up again. I didn’t have problems with temperature, but engine was too warm. After 100 km and two hours drive we reached hamada. On hamada there was a big text from stones - Timisah. This text was made by American oil explorers in 1957. Next we went 70 km by hamada. After passage the hamada, there was sand, big valleys with hills of sand. At the middle of valleys there was a stone plain, sometimes interrupted by big sand dunes. Once I had problems in dunes with engine temperature and I had to wait. For lunch time we stoped under abandoned trees. Under the tree there were jackal holes. Afternoon we noted record temperature 60°C - water from bottles was hot. It was impossible to drink it, we had problems with breathing, our hearts beat much strong, it was imposible to move. After 6 o’clock temperature falled to 50°C. We went 40 km across top of erg, we crossed many of pass, we still crossed dunes, it was very exciting. Twice I had problems with temperature, KTM had problems too. Last problem I had on top of big dune, from top I was looking on Sulejman preparing camp for night on the sand plain and lucky wawing at me....

Last night on desert. Starts were shining and falling down. It was quite windy and we were showered by flying sand. It was 40°C and it was bimpossible to fall asleep...

Thirth day

Sunrise in desert - nice. We had last 10 km on sand. I had no problems, but my friend wasn’t sleeping well and three times he fell down. After one hour we were on hamada. We increase preasure in tyres and we continued. We went out from dunes near place of our first camping. To Ghadames we arrived after sunset. Last 20 km we went in the dark. We come to Ghadames across rubbish heap....

In Ghadames we left one old pair Michelin Desert tyres - 21"/90-90 and 18"/140-80. If anybody need tyres, ask for Hadi B'kai in internet cafe near entry to the old city. But please send me an information.

Libya is very safe country, we didn’t have any problems there. All the people were very friendly. Our guide was excelent navigator and friend on desert and he was very tolerant to us. We didn’t have any problem.

And petrol was cheaper then water! Only 2 CZK per litre, everywhere unleaded and in very good quality.

PHOTOGALLERY

lyb_kadafi

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